NATURAL HAIR AND POROSITY..THE INSIDE SCOOP

Greetings, Chicas/Chicos..I pray all is well with everyone. Here is a topic that, along with so many other topics of natural hair, that has been a challenge for some to deal with..and that is POROSITY.
It's a topic that can keep us happy when we understand and O'So frustrating when we don't. Understanding the porosity of our hair, helps us to better understand products to use, how to use those products and how to care for our hair overall. So, let's dive into the topic a little and see if we can shed some light on the subject.

WHAT IS POROSITY

• Porosity refers to the condition of the cuticle layer of the hair.  The 3 types of porosity levels are: LOW, HIGH and NORMAL.

HOW TO TEST YOUR HAIR

• Place a freshly washed, product free strand of hair in a cup of water (cool water is fine) and wait for the show. Leave the strand in the water for about 8-10 minutes to see if the strand stays on top or floats to the bottom.

POROSITY LEVELS

• If the hair quickly sinks to the bottom of the cup, you have HIGH POROSITY hair. 
• If the hair floats somewhere towards the top or in the middle, you have NORMAL POROSITY.
• If the hair floats at the top for a long period of time, you have LOW POROSITY hair.

POROSITY..THE INSIDE SCOOP

HIGH POROSITY: 

• This type of porosity means the cuticle has been exposed to severe amounts of damage, either through environmental exposures, overuse of heat or chemical processes (relaxers, texturizers, colorants). The strand of hair floats quickly to the bottom of the cup of water due to the weight of the water becoming too heavy to float. Another sign of highly porous hair is that it loses moisture almost as quickly as moisture is applied. A hair, under a microscope, that is highly porous, resembles the gaps of swiss cheese. 

CARE THAT HELPS:

• For naturals who do have highly porous hair, thicker butters and products with oils are great because they can serve as a protective layer and help seal the cuticle. Henna and Protein Treatments are great because they temporarily fill the gaps in highly porous hair. Apple Cider Vinegar rinses are also helpful as they help to close the cuticle and protect the hair from any contaminants. Protein and deep conditioning treatments are extremely useful for temporarily patching the gaps of highly porous hair. Keeping in mind that these are 'temporary' fixes, it's best to focus on keeping the new growth healthy, minimizing or abstaining from the use of heat and chemical processes simply because once the hair is damaged due to the treatments, it cannot be permanently repaired. With hair that is highly porous, dry detangling may work best with the application of a butter or oil to help with slip. Finger detangling is also a great option because our fingers can feel for knots and tangles easier than a detangling tool. Though a detangling tool is great, a great practice is to finger detangle first, then proceed to use tool of choice, such as a wide tooth comb or brush. With regular trims and being mindful of the information above such as the protein treatments and deep conditions, this will definitely make highly porous hair more manageable.

NORMAL POROSITY:

• This is the happy medium. It means that the hair allows for easy moisture inside the cuticle and it holds moisture for long periods of time making hair less susceptible to breakage. It's a very desirable and low maintenance type of porosity. Be aware, regular chemical processes and excessive heat use can change the hair's porosity over time. Healthy ingredients, regular deep conditions, moisturizing and little to no heat will help keep normal porosity hair at it's best.

LOW POROSITY:

• This type of porosity is not as bad as it may seem. This type means that the cuticles are tight and pretty resistant to opening up for moisture. With hair that is of low porosity, many times it may feel as though product is sitting on top of the hair instead of thoroughly penetrating through the hair. The benefit of having low porosity hair is that once moisture is able to penetrate the cuticle, it holds on to it very well...the key is just getting the moisture inside. 

CARE THAT HELPS:

• With low porosity hair, it's best to incorporate ingredients that are of a more alkalinic nature. Adding a little bentonite clay (pH of 8.3) to you conditioner is a great trick. Also, for those with low porosity hair, the use of heat while deep conditioning is extremely helpful. Tools such as heat caps or a steamer are a great way to help lift the cuticle to aid in infusing moisture into the hair. With low porosity hair, make sure, when applying product, that the hair is wet or damp, then seal in the moisture with a butter or oil. 

My Hair:

My hair is a great mix of normal and low porosity. Feel free to check out my regimen here to see how I have managed to achieve and maintain healthy moisturized hair. Education, trial and error has truly helped me to understand and care for my hair and with that, I hope to help others throughout their journey by sharing my experiences. As always, I hope this helps, feel free to share your hair's porosity and how you care for your hair.

My O'Natural Regimen (2013)

Greetings, Greetings, Greetings, Ladies and Gents. I pray all is well with everyone. Ok, so I'm updating my regimen and wanted to keep you all abreast to the goings on of my world of O'Natural hair. Not much has changed, but I feel it's always a great thing to keep you all updated. As always, I love to stress that my regimen is not the end all be all, so always tweak the method for what is convenient and what works for you, or simply use my regimen as a guideline. As always, I hope this helps.

MY UPDATED REGIMEN (2013)

• PRE POO: Products of Choice: Natty Moist, Extra Virgin Coconut Oil or Sporty Afros Ayurvedic Oil . I usually choose my Natty Moist for my pre poo method and if I opt to do a hot oil treatment, I will use the Sporty Afros Ayurvedic Hair Oil. For my Pre-Poo Method and the benefits of this method, check it out here .

 

• CLEANSE: Products of Choice: ( I must say, I have a few items that I love to alternate and cleanse with: Dudu Osum Black Soap Shampoo, Terressentials Pure Earth Wash, Bobeam Shampoo Bars, or Chagrin Valley Ayurvedic Shampoo Bar (any of these items work extremely well for me and my family). I will also do a special treatment using Bentonite Clay. Feel free to check out my Bentonite Clay Treatment. All of these items are known as Clarifying cleansers which are great for removing buildup from the hair and scalp. Buildup is one of the key things that cause dryness and ultimately breakage to the hair. Due to the natural products that I use, I do not accumulate much buildup, so I cleanse about every 2-3 weeks using one of these preferred cleansers. When absorbing the excess water from my hair, I ALWAYS use an old t-shirt versus a towel to dry. Towels create dryness, cause frizz and increases friction in the hair, which can lead to breakage.

 

• IN BETWEEN CLEANSE (LIGHT CLEANSE): Products of Choice: Natty ACV Hair and Scalp Mist . With my Natty ACV Scalp Mist, I spray a nice amount onto my scalp to ensure that I keep my scalp clean and protected from dirt, debris and other contaminants. Since ACV is a mild clarifyer, it helps keep the product buildup at bay and allows me to stretch my actual need for a thorough (clarifying) cleanse for 2-3 weeks. It's especially awesome after a workout for helping to remove sweat buildup. I simply spray the mist, massage into my scalp and either leave in or hop in the shower and allow the water to rinse away the dirt.

 

• DEEP CONDITION: Product of Choice: Natty Cupuacu & Rhassoul Deep Conditioner: Talk about a yummy treat for my tresses. I absolutely love treating my hair to my chocolatey smelling conditioner. I deep condition my hair each time I do a thorough cleanse. I opt to use my conditioner with a steamer or heat cap due to my hair being of 'low porosity'. The heat helps to lift my cuticle and ensure that my tresses retain its due moisture. After conditioning and rinsing, I mist my Natty ACV Hair and Scalp Mist to help close my cuticle back. This helps to protect my hair from dirt, debris and other environmental contaminants. Also, when the cuticle is closed, it gives the hair a smoother (less frizzy) shinier appearance.

 

• MOISTURIZE: Product of Choice: Natty Moist leave in conditioner or Natty ACV Hair and Scalp Mist : After Cleansing and conditioning, I will use both my Natty ACV Hair and Scalp Mist and then my Natty Moist as my leave ins. Throughout the week when I need to re-moisturize my hair, I will apply my Natty Moist and/or Natty ACV Hair and Scalp Mist to hydrate my hair. Any time I finger detangle, I apply a thorough amount of the Natty Moist or thoroughly wet my hair with my Natty ACV Mist. For my how to video on using these two products, check it out Here .

 

• SEAL: Product of Choice: Natty Butter: Hands down, no matter the oils or butters I have tried, this is my absolute favorite product to seal/lock in moisture for my hair. It is extremely important to understand that butters and oils are not 'moisturizer' but instead to understand that they are 'sealants'. A sealant is like a protection in that it locks in moisture to prevent it from escaping so quickly. To seal my hair, I 'first' apply a moisturizer of choice (my Natty Moist or Natty ACV Mist)..Then, I apply my Natty Butter to lock in the moisture. Using this method has helped me keep my strands moisturized and healthy, minimize breakage and retain length. I normally do not have to re moisturize my hair for about 2-3 days. 

 

• TRIM:  It is very important to keep those ends trimmed. While building your regimen, you may incorporate how often you wish to gradually trim your ends as you draw closer to returning completely natural. This time can range from 1/4 to 1/2 inch per month, two months or a little longer time period. If you are not comfortable trimming your own hair, it is very important to find a stylist that specializes in natural hair care and have them trim your hair for you (one who understands trimming vs. cutting). I normally trim my hair every 2-3 months removing about 1/4 inch of hair from my ends. This has helped keep not only my ends but overall hair healthy and thriving. 

 

• PROTECT: Item of Choice: Satin/Silk Scarf, bonnet and/or pillowcase. One of the key factors of retaining moisture into the hair is protecting the hair at night using fabric that help hold in moisture versus removing moisture from the hair. Cotton absorbs moisture from the hair. Silk and satin help to retain moisture. After I moisturize my hair, I cover it with my silk or satin scarf and sleep on my satin pillowcase for extra protection.  

ADDITIONAL VERY IMPORTANT FACTORS

• DIET: I always stress that healthy clean eating is one of the major factors of achieving and maintaining healthy hair. We must remember, what we put into our bodies affect what comes out of it. Our diet consists of a pescatarian diet, which includes some fish, plenty of fresh fruit and green leafy vegetables. I also incorporate tons of herbal teas such as Dandelion (cleanses the liver), Organic Moringa Leaf, Green Tea, Chamomile, Chai Tea and others. I don't take vitamin supplements as I've always felt that the best way to receive needed vitamins and nutrients is directly from our food source.
• WATER INTAKE
• EXERCISE: Because exercise helps with blood circulation, it's an extremely factor in overall health including healthy hair.

 

TOP TIPS FOR TRANSITIONERS (updated)

Greetings, Chicas/Chicos...Let's Talk TRANSITIONING
Oh, to chop or not to chop, that is the question..

Many times as we ponder the thought of returning to our natural crowns, we dabble in thought of whether we wish to chop all of our hair at once or not chop all of our hair at once..Well, either way, we support your decision and are here to help. For those who wish to keep more length and not chop their hair all at once (known as a Big Chop or BC) and rather, wish to gradually trim their relaxed or straightened ends and slowly transition into returning completely natural, here are some tips that may help.

TRANSITIONING TIPS

TIP 1: DETANGLING: 
When detangling the hair can be a task fit for a surgeon when handling hair of two textures and carefully avoiding or minimizing breakage. The key to easier detangling is ALWAYS detangle hair when wet and slippery with conditioner. Pay special attention to the line of demarcation (the line where the new growth meets the relaxed or straightened ends). Also, if the hair is long enough, detangling while the hair is in sections, then twisting or braiding, helps keep the hair from re-tangling. Many transitioners have found success with first finger detangling, then using a wide tooth comb, such as a Jilbrere Shower Comb or detangling brush to detangle. 

TIP 2: DEEP CONDITIONING/PROTEIN TREATMENTS: 
These treatments should be a transitioners best friend!! A balance between protein and deep conditioning is key to minimizing breakage. With protein, it is used to strengthen the hair, 'temporarily' repairing the hair that is damaged from chemical treatments, colorants and heat use. Be mindful, protein treatments have a tendency to make the hair feel harder than usual, which is why it is very important to follow up with a deep conditioner afterwards to soften the hair once again. You can choose commercial brand protein treatments, henna (works much like a protein treatment and does an excellent job of strengthening the hair. Be sure to look for BAZ or Body Art Quality Henna as it's the easiest to rinse out) or a DIY (Do It Yourself) protein treatment. Protein treatments can be done bi-yearly. Deep conditioners are best as regular treatments, such as weekly or at least bi-weekly. 

TIP 3: MOISTURIZE..BUT DON'T OVERMOISTURIZE:
It is oober important to keep tresses moisturized, as natural hair can become a bit dry. However, this can be a double edged sword as the hair that is relaxed or have the straightened ends can become water logged easily therefore making the hair weak and break easily. Transitioned hair usually fair well being moisturized every few days or weekly (each person will vary). Remember, over moisturizing transitioned hair can create weakness leading to breakage.

TIP 4: STYLING:
When styling hair with two textures, it is of the utmost importance to handle with kid gloves. Remember that line of demarcation is very fragile. Using styling tools, such as wide tooth combs and brushes designed for detangling are key. Treat transitioning hair very gently..I repeat, treat very gently. Protective styles, such as twists, braids, plaits, buns are great for transitioners and minimizes the amount of daily styling applied to the hair. There are a plethora of amazing styles for transitioners such as Twist n Curls, Bantu Knot Outs, Flexi Rods, Perm Rods because they do a great job of blending the two textures.

TIP 5: REGIMEN
Ok, now while I don't encourage you to follow someone else's regimen exactly, I do encourage regimen building that suits your needs. Building a regimen is helpful with understanding products and helping to understand what may or may not work for you..this way, when you have completely transitioned and returned to natural, you are more comfortable with what works and have a better understanding of how to care for your tresses. Though your products may or may not change, the consistency of how you care for your hair may not and as the days go by, you will be more comfortable with maintaining your hair. Building a regimen also helps with aiding your hair in becoming used to your regimen that is comfortable for YOU. 

TIP 6: TRIMMING
It is very important to keep those ends trimmed. While building your regimen, you may incorporate how often you wish to gradually trim your ends as you draw closer to returning completely natural. This time can range from 1/4 to 1/2 inch per month, two months or a little longer time period. If you are not comfortable trimming your own hair, it is very important to find a stylist that specializes in natural hair care and have them trim your hair for you (one who understands trimming vs. cutting)

TIP 7: PROTECT AT NIGHT
Very important tip is protecting the hair at night. Covering hair with a stain (especially charmeuse satin) cap, scarf or pillow is extremely helpful for retaining proper moisture and minimizing breakage. If you feel your satin scarf, bonnet or pillowcase alone are not enough, double up. You can cover your hair with a scarf or bonnet and sleep on a satin pillow for a double dose of protection. 

TIP 8: DRYING THE HAIR
When drying the hair from cleansing, try using an old t-shirt to dry instead of a towel. Towels can be very rough on the hair and cause friction on the hair leading to dryness and breakage. Once you have rinsed your hair, cover with a t-shirt, just as you would with a towel and leave until hair is just slightly damp. Complete your regimen as normal.

TIP 9: RESEARCH
Research, research, research!! The power of the internet can be an awesome tool for seeking out what other naturals have been through in regards to achieving and maintaining healthy hair. It's also helpful for learning what may or may not work for your hair and how to become creative with how to style your hair. Sites such as Youtube, Facebook, Blog sites, Instagram and Pinterest, to name a few, have been extremely helpful with helping many on their journey to returning to natural. The power of networking with others who have returned to natural is extremely helpful with the fear and frustration of the journey.

TIP 10: DON'T STRESS AND LOVE YOUR HAIR.
Remember, you hair is only an accessory of you. There is no such thing as bad hair, no matter who has tried to define it. Each person will have different results of styles, regimens, hair growth, etc, but the beautiful thing is that we are all unique. Yes, you may deal with shrinkage. Yes, you may deal with breakage. Yes, you will definitely deal with shedding (natural part of the growth cycle). Yes, you will deal with not being able to master every style or a particular style...And all of that is A-OK! Get excited about Your hair texture, no matter what texture it is..Remember, there is NO SUCH THING as bad hair and don't allow the definition of society nor others convince you that there is. Never lose site of how beautiful you are.

As always, I hope this helps..Have a Happy Natty Day!!

STRETCHING NATURAL HAIR

Greetings, Team ATON!! Lets chat about SHRINKAGE and some quick tips that can help elongate those tresses. As we all know, shrinkage is an inevitable part of our O'Natural journey. Though many or most of us just embrace it, Every now and then we wish to rock our naturally beautiful tresses awith a little more length. So here are some quick tips and methods that have been beneficial for stretching the hair.

HAIR STRETCHING TIPS

BANDING

• BANDING: Banding is a method where you place small bands down the length of your damp or wet and sectioned hair beginning from root to tip. Once the hair is completely dry, you remove the bands and the tension of the bands have left you with stretched hair. You can find many youtube videos in banding, just type banding natural hair in the search engine.

BRAIDOUTS/TWISTOUTS

• BRAID OR TWIST OUTS: This technique of simply braiding or twisting the hair while damp, wet or dry will elongate the hair and especially elongates as the style grows older. The older the style, the fuller and longer it becomes. On hair that is wet, the braid or twist out will be shorter than if braided or twisted on hair that is simply damp or dry hair that has been moisturized. For medium to longer length hair, you can take your medium to large sized twists or braids and pull each one (one by one) to the opposite side and bobby pin. The tension from bobby pinning the hair stretches the hair allowing for a longer style. I did this method in video form on youtube, check out my page at YOUTUBE. You can also moisturize your twists or braids and pull them into a bun which stretches the hair as well.

THE BUNNING METHOD

• THE BUN METHOD: This is a technique that you may hear me speak about often in regards to how I stretch my hair. You simply gather all of your hair and pull into a low or medium bun.

CURLERS/FLEXRODS/CURLFORMERS

• CURLERS OR ROLLERS: The use of Curlformers and rollers give the curls a sleek elongated tress. Visit your nearest Sally's beauty supply or google Curlformers for more information. Flex rods are also helpful with stretching curls. These can be found at almost any local beauty supply store or Target.

USING HEAT 

• HEAT: Using this method, this is where low to medium heat is used on 80-90% dry hair to stretch the hair. Proceed with caution when using this method as hair can become irreversibly damaged where the hair's protein bond has been damaged and the damaged hair no longer reverts back to its curly state. Before using this method, feel free to check out my blog post on the Do's and Don'ts of using heat. USING HEAT

Final tip, for any style or stretching method, be sure to moisturize the hair then lock in the moisture with a butter or oil..and protect with a silk/satin bonnet, scarf or pillow at night.. Hope this helps, Team.

STEP BY STEP..MY PRE-POO METHOD

Hola Chicas/Chicos..I pray all is well with everyone.
So I decided to do a series titled 'Step by Step' pictorials of my healthy hair tips that I hope will also be beneficial to aiding you through your journey with ease.
For a full detail of my Pre Poo Method, please click here: PRE POO

My PRE-POO METHOD..PrePooing is a beneficial step that is done before shampoo cleansing the hair. It allows the hair to retain more conditioner, it helps prevent swelling of the hair and it minimizes the harshness of shampooing and helps rid the hair of shed hairs accumulated throughout the days and weeks. (keep in mind, normal hair will shed between 100-150 hairs per day. You can tell shed hair by the white tip or bulb at the end of the hair)...If you have a prepoo method of your own that is working, please feel free to share. I do this about once per month each time I do a shampoo cleanse.

A NATTY GIRL'S STEP BY STEP PRE POO METHOD

• STEP 1: Place hair into 2 to 4 sections (if long enough) to prep for pre pooing. The sections allow for ease of doing this method and to help prevent the hair from re-tangling. Select a spray bottle with water, your favorite oil and/or conditioner (recently, I've been using both an oil and conditioner.)

• STEP 2: Saturate hair with your water. (This aids in helping to detangle with ease)

• STEP 3: Apply your oil of choice or apply your conditioner. If using conditioner only, skip step 3. Just FYI, oils that are able to penetrate the hair shaft are: olive oil, avocado oil and coconut oil..These are typically the oils that I use

• STEP 4: Saturate the hair, making sure to thoroughly apply to your ends, with your favorite natural conditioner (I used my Natty Moist)

• STEP 5: Detangle with your choice of tool or your fingers. I mostly finger detangle. Be sure when using a tool, began detangling from ends working your way up to your roots now that your hair is slippery with conditioner. This minimizes breakage and allows for easy detangling. Be sure to thorougly work the conditioner through.

• STEP 6: Place hair in twist, buns or plaits so hair does not retangle while pre pooing

• STEP 7: You can opt to use no heat or use a steamer or heat cap to help infuse the oils and/or conditioner into the hair. This is especially helpful for naturals with 'low porosity' hair. The heat helps to lift the cuticle and properly infuse moisture. If you are unsure what your hair's porosity may be, simply place a single hair into a cup of water and watch to see if it floats on top, in the middle or floats to the bottom. If it floats on top, you have low porosity, which is typically genetic. This means that your cuticle is closed very tight making it a bit difficult to penetrate the hair with moisture..but once moisture is infused, it holds moisture very well. This is why the heat, which helps lift the cuticle is beneficial. If the hair floats to the bottom, you have high porosity hair. This type is usually caused by damage such as chemical processes (relaxers, texturizers, colorants), heat and/or environmental pollutants. For high porosity, you can choose to use heat when conditioning or not, just be sure to use butters and oils when locking in moisture to help close the gaps that are in the hair follicle from damage. If the hair floats in the middle, you have normal porosity.

              **Just, fyi, I have low porosity hair and it stays hydrated using these methods.

• STEP 8: Shampoo, deep condition, apply a leave in and seal in the moisture. For me, here is what I use: 

WHAT THIS NATTY GIRL USES

I SHAMPOO using either Terressentials pure earth wash, Bobeam Natural Hair Products Shampoo Bars, The Bentonite Clay Treatment or Dudu Osum's Black Soap Shampoo.

I DEEP CONDITION: Using my Natty Cupuacu & Rhassoul Deep Conditioner

I APPLY MY LEAVE IN: Using my Natty Moist Conditioner and Moisturizer

I SEAL/LOCK IN MY MOISTURE: Using my Natty Butter

WHERE TO BUY

Natty Products available at www.nattynatural.com

Bobeam Shampoo Bars available at: http://www.etsy.com/shop/BobeamProducts

Terressentials Pure Earth Wash: www.terressentials.com

Dudu Osum Black Soap Shampoo: www.nattynatural.com

Have a Happy Natty Day!!

PRODUCT BUILDUP....SAY WHAT???

Greetings, Beautiful People...I pray all is well with everyone. 

Now, let's chat about one of the culprits that truly aid in dry hair..and that's PRODUCT BUILDUP.

Before we get into the how of how to rid the hair of product buildup, let's chat about how it affects the hair.

PRODUCT BUILDUP...HOW IT AFFECTS THE HAIR

• Locks Moisture Out...prevents the hair from receiving moisture which aids in dryness and brittleness. 
• Greasy/Peasy..Product buildup gives hair a greasy feeling and instead of it being properly moisturized and have a feeling of hydration, it has a feeling of grimy buildup.
• Clogs the pores on the scalp...clogs the pores of the scalp thereby aiding in further scalp issues
• This new product just didn't work..Product buildup prevents the hair from responding to the use of new products when trying for the 1st time. Note... It's always important to clarify the hair when using a new product for the 1st time to truly see how the product is working.
  And be sure to deep condition anytime you shampoo/clarify cleanse your hair.

How To Prevent or Rid the Hair of Product Buildup

In order to prevent product buildup from creating dryness, it's best to do a thorough cleansing of the hair using a cleanser or DIY (

do it yourself) treatment to thoroughly cleanse the hair. Many shampoos are not formulated strong enough to remove some natural oils such as castor oil and many synthetic ingredients, so a clarifying poo would be the best way to go. I mention some awesome natural clarifiers below.

Co-washing (conditioner washing) is a great way to lightly moisturize the hair and aid in retaining moisture in the hair. However, co-washing is not formulated to be strong enough to remove synthetic ingredients and many oils, so it's a great idea to clarify the hair at least monthly (if using all aural ingredients) and twice per month (if using products with synthetic ingredients). Conditioners are also usually formulated at lower ph levels to help close the cuticle which is mot beneficial for cleansing the hair thoroughly, and they are great for temporarily restoring moisture and temporarily repairing the hair. Now for me, I co wash weekly and clarify monthly. However, anytime I cleanse whether co-washing or clarifying, I use my Natty ACV Hair and Scalp Mist as a pre cleanse and as a final rinse (as a final rinse, I simply spray the mist onto my scalp and hair after final rinsing). 

Some great all natural cleansers are SheaMoisture African black Soap Shampoo, Dudu Osum Black soap shampoo, Terressentials pure earth wash, the bentonite clay treatment (of course there are tons more). Apple Cider Vinegar is also a great way to help with the cleansing process of removing product buildup. It also help to protect the scalp from fungi, debris, bacteria and other contaminants found in tap water and environmental elements. A simple ACV rinse is to combine 1 TSP of ACV to 8 oz of cool distilled or filtered water and pour onto clean, conditioned and rinsed hair as your final rinse. Do not rinse the mixture out. You can also combine this mixture in a nice applicator bottle and apply to hair and scalp as a pre cleanse for helping to remove buildup. ACV also helps to close the cuticle on the hair helping the hair minimize frizz and impart sheen to the hair. Check out this great video how to of a helpful cleansing method to help rid the hair of product buildup: Cleansing Video .

As always, I hope this tip was helpful and remember, clean hair and scalp = happy hair and scalp.

For the look above

Knotty Gal Earrings by Dope Crochet
Mineral Lipstick in Classic by Motives

O'NATTY KIDS..REGIMEN FOR MY LITTLE ONES

Hola Chicas/Chicos...I pray all is well with everyone!
Ok, so I get this question a ton times ten on regimens for little Natty kids, so I thought, this would be a great opportunity to share how I care for my little one's tresses to keep their hair clean, moisturized and most times, neat, lol (wink). This regimen, I do for our 2 year old and 3 year old son. Our olderst, who is 6, likes to cleanse and moisturize his own hair since he had it cut, but before that, his regimen was the same as the info below when I was growing it out. Now, for our newborn (1 month old), he's slightly different in that, I dilute the cleanser more, but I do moisturize and seal in the moisture just as I will mention below. And as always, I hope this helps, guys!


STEP 1:KIDDY CLEANSING TIME...HOW IN THE WORLD DO THEY SIT STILL???

• Hmm, great question, how in the world does she sit still while you cleanse..First, let me say, I found a method that works for us and that is, I do most of the cleansing process outside of the tub or sink..I mist the hair with our Natty ACV Hair and Scalp mist to loosen the dirt and buildup, especially from the scalp..I even allow them to spray their own hair to let them feel as though they are cleansing their own hair..Now, I usually do this while a great show is on (Dora, Peppa Pig, SuperWHY, Yo Gabba Gabba or some other fantastic kid show) or I let them play on their Ipad in a comfortable position so they are distracted or we sing..loudly, and I proceed to spray away and massage their scalp. 
• Once the hair is hydrated and damp, I finger detangle, gently, and place our daughter's hair into 2 twists or braids (same method I use when cleansing my hair. Placing hair in twists or braids prevents the hair from retangling during the cleansing process).
• Once the hair is in the twists or braids, I apply cleanser to my hands (usually Dudu Osum's African Black Soap shampoo..only all natural for my little ones) and gently massage the cleanser into her scalp, first, then undo one twist/braid at a time and apply a little cleanser down the hair and retwist/braid back up and move to the next one. Doing a massage while cleansing gets the blood circulating promoting healthy hair growth..and kids love it!
• This entire process takes about maybe 10-15 minutes..That's 10-15 mintues that you have saved water, detangled and cleansed the hair.
• PLEASE NOTE: I only shampoo cleanse our little ones' hair once per month. Weekly, I co-wash (conditioner wash) the hair, which helps in retaining moisture in the hair. This works for us because we do not use synthetic ingredients or tons of product that would require a thorough cleansing using a shampoo as often.

STEP 2: NOW IT'S TIME TO RINSY RINSE THAT DIRT AWAY

• Now that the cleansing part is over, it's time to head to the bath or sink to rinse. By this time, she is calm and ready.
• Once in the bath/sink, I unravel one twist/braid at a time and rinse the hair with lukewarm water and run my fingers through the hair allowing the weight of the water to help further the detangling process. 
• Voila, hair cleansed and rinsed and ready for conditioning.

STEP 3: CONDITION, RINSE, MOISTURIZE AND SEAL

• Once the hair is rinsed, I apply our Natty Moist conditioner to the hair and finger it throughone sectionat a time to ensure each strand is coated, then retwist/braid.
• While the conditioner is marinating on the hair(5-10 minutes at the most), we have fun bath time.
• After about 5-10 minutes, we rinse the conditioner, and I pour a little Natty ACV Hair and Scalp Mist onto her hair as a final rinse...hmmm, what does this do, you ask? Well, the ACV helps to protect the hair and scalp from any possible soam residue, protects the scalp and hair from contaminants, fungi and bacteria possibities from tap water and it helps to close the cuticle, giving hair it's smooth appearance. (If using plain ACV rinse, just add 1 TSP of ACV to 8 oz of cool water and pour onto hair and scalp. The smell will disappear within minutes)
• Apply a little Natty Moist as her leave in
• Seal the moisturized hair with our Natty Butter to ensure that the moisture is locked in. Remember, whenever you apply a moisturizer (water or a water based product), you must LOCK/SEAL the moisture in with a butter, oil, or combo of both. This is what helps the hair remain moisturized. I never apply oil or butter to her scalp as our scalp produces natural sebum and when we oil the scalp we are in essence clogging the pores and preventing the scalp from producing it's natural oils. Once the scalp malfunction and this could potentially lead to scalp issues such as dry flaky scalp. The only time oil is pretty safe to apply is if doing a 'hot oil treatment' which is washed out after a certain time.

STEP 4...STYLE AS YOU CHOOSE

• Now that the hair is clean, moisturized and sealed, you can style as you choose. Now, I rarely allow our daughter's hair to be out due to the possiblity of retangling and achieving knots. So, I either place them in 4 plaits and wrap them in bantu knots or I give her some puffs, which I twist at night.
• Now, at night, because she wouldn't dare keep a satin scarf or bonnet on her head, I just place a satin pillow in her bed to keep her tresses moisturized.

DO'S AND DON'TS FOR THE LITTLE ONES

• DO NOT... Detangle on hair that is dry!! This is a huge culprit for breakage and split ends..and it's quite painful for the little one. 
• DO... Always gently detangle on damp or wet hair and begin detangling from tip, working your way up to the root.
• DO..When remoisturizing hair thrughout the week..FIRST, apply water or a water based product to hydrate the hair, then apply a butter or oil to lock in the moisture.
• DO NOT..Place hair in styles that create too much tention on the hair, especially the edges.
• DO...Keep ends properly moisturized and sealed. 
• DO NOT..Try as hard as possible to work on the hair when your little ones are fed, not cranky or sleepy..no matter how gentle, they will make a fuss, so try to designate a convenient time when you are both alert and in great spirits.
• DO..Use a wide tooth comb as your method of detangling should you choose to use a detangling tool..Or a detangling brush such as the denman or other wide tooth brush
• DO..Remember, if you make it a non hassle pleasant hair grooming time, it won't feel so much like a battle of the ages!! My mom was even impressed with how well our daughter doesn't struggle to get her hair done..SCORE!!

I FOLLOW THIS REGIMEN WITH MY BOYS AS WELL

 He has since cut his hair :-(

OUR PRODUCTS WE USE: GOO TEAM NATTY!!

Products available at: www.nattynatural.com

HAIR GROWTH AND WHAT AFFECTS IT!!!

24 months post BC

Hola Chicas/Chicos..I pray all is well with everyone. Ok, now talk about a topic that's super popular in the natural hair community and that's 'HAIR GROWTH'. There are loads of products that promise growth, hundreds of techniques that promise growth and more..Now, while we may not all be obssessed with it, we all love to see a little growth here and there within our tresses. However, when that want turns into an obsessed need, that's when we find ourselves trying every product on the market, trying every technique that many have never even thought nor heard of, just to see our tresses move one step further than what it was.. YESTERDAY!! That can definitely get us into some hot water and create bigger issues. So, let's just chat about what actually affects our hair growth. Now this one may get pretty lengthy and I will try to explain as best as possible what affects hair growth to where it may be easier to understand, so if I fall short, don't judge me, lol..kidding!

HAIR GROWTH AND WHAT AFFECTS IT

     In order of what affects hair growth from the least to the most effective are:

(1)  GENETICS: determines our hair growth cycles and hair loss cycles, such as balding patterns.

(2) HORMONES: Birth control and events such as pregnancy

(3)

NUTRITION:

Because any of the nutrients we get from food are FIRST utilized by our bodies, our hair and nails receive any left over proteins, vitamins, water and nutrients after the body has used them. So, if our diets are already poor and our water intake is not so great, any possible vitamins, minerals and nutrients from the food eaten are distributed within our bodies and if none are left for our hair and nails, this affects how the hair and nails grow. So, this is why it is stressed to try as much as possible to feed our bodies great healthy foods and have great water intake.

 (4) EXERCISE: Extremely important factor that is many times overlooked in terms of healthy hair growth. Exercise promotes oxygen flow. It also releases endorphins (neurotransmitters , which are chemicals that pass signals along one neuron to the next). They are the pain blockers and are responsible for our feelings of pleasure. Which is why when we exercise or have a great workout, we feel great, pleasurable (they are also released during sex, as it serves as a form of exercise in a sense as well). And, exercise regulates the adrenal glands which are responsible for your body's relation to stress.

5) STRESS: The top dog. Did you know that a stressful event can cause the hair to go into a 'resting phase' known as the TELOGEN PHASE (the resting phase of the hair..this is where our hair sheds and falls out). Now, normal hair shedding is between 75-100 hairs per day, however, excessive shedding can be created by a few things. Now, let me go a little deeper. On average, about 85%-95% of the hairs on our heads are in the growing phase (ANAGEN PHASE), and the others are resting (TELOGEN PHASE). The hair is normally in the Anagen or growing phase for 2-4 years then it enters the resting or Telogen phase for about 2-4 months, then it falls out and is replaced by a new growing hair. Now, when a stressful event occurs, the hair will enter what is called TELOGEN EFFLUVIUM. This is where some body change or shock pushes MORE hairs into the Telogen (resting phase). So when a person is struggling with Telogen Effluvium, they may lose 300 hairs vs 100 hairs per day. Here is a list of things that can trigger Telogen Effluvium:

(1) Sugery
(2) Major physical trauma
(3) Major psychological stress
(4) High fever, severe infection or other illness
(5) Extreme weight loss
(6) Extreme change in diet
(7) Abrubt hormonal changes, such as childbirth or menopause
(8) Iron defenciency
(9) Hyperthyroidism
(10) Some medications
(11) Poor diet (in some cases)

Now, keep in mind, because the hair rests for 2-4 months, you may not experience the excessive shedding until a few months later, so that will cause you to back track and think about what major stressful event may be the cause..For example, if in February, I begin to experience excessive shedding, I would think back to the surgery (c-section) that I had in October as the potential cause of my excessive shedding. The great news is that normally, no one can tell that your hair is experiencing this excessive shedding but you and the Telogen Effluvium usually runs its course within 6-9 months. (note: see your doc if you begin to experience bald patches or more extreme hair loss, this could be something different).

A few other things that can affect Hair Growth are:

(A) STYLING TECHNIQUES: combs, brushes, use of heat, harsh chemical use (relaxers, color, texturizers)

(B) TRIMMING

(C) SCALP ISSUES: These are created by numerous things and because our scalp is sensitive, it is imperative that we do things to make sure that it functions properly. Try not to use nails or objects such as combs to scratch the scalp. These make tiny microscopic slits on the scalp and forces the scalp to go into a 'repair mode' which can make it malfunction. And because our scalp produces normal sebum (oil) it's usually not necessary to add additional oils to the scalp, which creates clogged pores in the scalp and over time will cause the scalp to malfunction.

(D) WASHING: Many harsh ingredients (sulfates in particular) strip the scalp of it's natural sebum causing some to assume the scalp is dry, which in turn makes us want to 'grease/oil' the scalp, again, potentially creating scalp malfunction which leads to other scalp issues. Our hair's pH range is between 4.5-5.5, so it's best to try to utilize products that fall into that range. Now, cleansers are usually formulated at higher pH, however, this is where a conditioner plays a major part because they are usually formulated at lower pH levels to help close the cuticle , soften and temporarily repair the hair. ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) rinses are great for aiding in scalp issues and for protecting the hair and scalp from harmful contaminants and it helps protect the hair by closing the cuticle preventing further damage to the hair. So, yes, ingredients do matter. For more information on potentially harsh/harmful ingredients, check out this post for 10 things to avoid putting on your hair: click here

Hope this helps..Happy Natty Day!